Sewing apparatus

ABSTRACT

In an apparatus for sewing articles, such as sewing a slide fastener chain to an opening in an article, stitching of thread to an article is initiated by a manual control and is terminated by an automatic control in response to the sensing of a terminal point, such as the terminal point of an opening, on the article. Article guiding facilities urge folded edge portions of an article toward each other by spring biased members on folding plates. A scroll for receiving and guiding a folded edge portion of an article has an adjustable channel. A linear motion apparatus, such as a dual needle holding mechanism, employs a linear motor driving a camming member which engages a locking member on a movable member to move the movable member to a selected position and to operate the locking member.

United States Patent [1 1 Boser [4 1 July 8,1975

1 SEWING APPARATUS Ronald J. Boser, Huntington Station, NY.

[73] Assignee: B & W Manufacturing Co., 1nc.,

New York, NY.

[22] Filed: Oct. 2, 1973 [21] Appl. No.: 402,876

[75] Inventor:

[52] US. Cl. 112/105 [51] Int. Cl. D05! 3/18 [58] Field of Search 112/105-107, 112/104,265,121.11,121.12

[56] References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 3,244,129 4/1966 Steingruber 112/105 3,286,668 ll/1966 Rockerath et a1. 112/105 X 3,807,326 4/1974 Frohlich et a1. 112/105 Primary ExaminerGeo. Vi Larkin Attorney, Agent, or FirmAnthony A. OBrien [57] ABSTRACT In an apparatus for sewing articles, such as sewing a slide fastener chain to an opening in an article, stitching ofthread to an article is initiated by a manual control and is terminated by an automatic control in response to the sensing of a terminal point, such as the terminal point of an opening, on the article.

Article guiding facilities urge folded edge portions of an article toward each other by spring biased members on folding plates.

A scroll for receiving and guiding a folded edge portion of an article has an adjustable channel.

A linear motion apparatus, such as a dual needle holding mechanism, employs a linear motor driving a camming member which engages a locking member on a movable member to move the movable member to a selected position and to operate the locking member.

24 Claims, 63 Drawing Figures SHEET FIG.I|

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PATENTED JUL 1915 SHE PMENTEDJUL 8 ms SHEET FIG.I9

MTEmEmuL 5 515 35933102 sum 10 SHEET 32 -02 oomon wwmT 2.1 mnfi omn- Pp on mmm mm 01 wmdl P'ATEHTEnJuL 8 1915 SHEET SEWING APPARATUS BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention This invention relates to apparatus for sewing and, in particular. to an apparatus for sewing slide fastener chain to openings of articles.

2. Description of the Prior Art The prior art, as exemplified by US. Pat. Nos. 3,199,479, 3,200,779, 3,329,109, 3,359,931, 3,425,373, 3,442,236, 3,448,705, 3,536,020 3,570,434 and 3,705,446, includes many apparatus for sewing articles including apparatus for sewing slide fastener chain to openings in articles. Some prior art sewing apparatus is highly automated; however such automatic apparatus is usually limited to sewing a single line of stitches in a selected pattern and size on an article. Ribbon-like materials, such as slide fasteners, to be sewed on articles generally vary in length with each different article, making the prior art automatic apparatus impractical for serving such ribbon-like materials to articles. Other prior art sewing apparatus utilize dual stitching facilities with dual needles to speed sewing of ribbon-like materials to articles; however such dual needle sewing machines generally require manual operations for functions other than forming stitches. Many prior art sewing apparatus employ article guiding facilities but such facilities are generally limited to single ranges of thicknesses of material. Also dual needle sewing machines having a retractable needle, such as Pfaff model No. 122, are available, but the mechanisms for retracting needles are generally complex and/or not adapted for automation; there is generally not available a linear motion apparatus which requires only a small moving force along a linear direction but remains rigid against a force many times as great as the moving force along the linear direction.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The invention is summarized in an apparatus for sewing a pair of tapes ofa fastener chain to respective portions of an article having an opening between the portions which are joined at a terminal point at one end of the opening, the apparatus comprising a pair of means each including a needle for forming stitches from a respective thread, means for feeding the pair of tapes and the portions of the article through the pair of stitch forming means to form a pair of parallel spaced lines of stitches each fastening a tape to a respective portion, manual control means for initiating operation of the pair of stitch forming means and the feeding means, means for sensing the terminal point of the opening, and automatic control means responsive to the sensing means for terminating the operation of the pair of stitch forming means and the feeding means.

An object of the invention is to provide automatic sewing apparatus for performing many sewing functions previously performed by manual operations.

Another object is to automatically terminate and form a bottom stop in sewing a slide fastener to an opening of an article.

It is an additional object of the invention to automate sewing of ribbon-like materials to articles by having an operator initiated cycle continue until a terminal point on an article is sensed to initiate an automatic termination cycle.

Still another object of the invention is to provide a linear motion mechanism, such as a needle retracting mechanism in a dual needle sewing apparatus, which requires a small moving force but locks in a selected position.

A further object of the invention is to provide an adjustable guiding mechanism for folded edge portions of articles to accommodate different thickness of material or the like.

Additional features of the invention include the provision of facilities for cutting a slide fastener chain in response to the sensing of a terminal point of an opening in an article; the provision of a sewing machine thread cutter utilizing both sewing and shearing action on the thread; the provision of automatic thread tension release facilities in a sewing machine; the provision of facilities for moving the garment transverse to the normal direction of travel in a sewing machine in response to automatic control facilities; the provision of folding plates with spring biased seam closing members; the provision of a scroll member in a folder which has an adjustable concave channel; and the provision of facilities for feeding and guiding slide fastener chain to a sewing apparatus.

Other objects, features and advantages of the invention will become apparent from the following description of the preferred embodiment when taken together with the accompanying drawings.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE. DRAWINGS FIG. I is a perspective view with parts broken away of a sewing apparatus in accordance with the invention.

FIG. 2 is a plan view of a broken away portion of a slide fastener chain to be sewed to an article by the apparatus of FIG. 1.

FIG. 3 is a plan view of a broken away portion of an article to which a section of slide fastener chain is to be sewed by the apparatus of FIG. 1.

FIG. 4 is a perspective view ofa front portion broken away from the apparatus of FIG. 1 with an article supporting cover removed.

FIG. 5 is a front view of a braking mechanism partially in cross section and broken away from the apparatus of FIG. 1.

FIG. 6 is a top view partially in cross section including a transverse cam mechanism, a transverse article feed mechanism and presser foot lifting mechanism broken away from the apparatus of FIG. 1.

FIG. 7 is a cross section view from the right side along lines 7-7 of FIG. 6 of the transverse cam mechanism.

FIG. 8 is a diagram in linear form of the radius per angle of rotation from a stop position around to a next stop position of a cam of the transverse cam mechanism shown in FIGS. 6 and 7.

FIG. 9 is a front view of a broken away portion including a transverse article feed mechanism of the apparatus of FIG. 1.

FIG. 10 is a perspective view of a dual needle mechanism of the apparatus of FIG. I.

FIG. 11 is a cross section view from the front of a needle retracting and locking mechanism of the dual needle mechanism shown in FIG. I6.

FIG. 12 is a view similar to FIG. 11 but reduced in scale and with some portions broken away illustrating a left needle in a raised position. 

1. An apparatus for sewing a pair of tapes of a fastener chain to respective portions of an article having an opening between the portions which are joined at a terminal point at one end of the opening, the apparatus comprising a pair of means each including a needle for forming stitches from a respective thread, means for feeding the pair of tapes and the portions of the article through the pair of stitch forming means to form a pair of parallel spaced lines of stitches each fastening a tape to a respective portion, manual control means for initiating operation of the pair of stitch forming means and the feeding means, means for sensing the terminal point of the opening, and automatic control means responsive to the sensing means for terminating the operation of the pair of stitch forming means and the feeding means.
 2. An apparatus as claimed in claim 1 wherein the fastener chain has a continuous length and wherein there is included means responsive to the sensing means for severing the fastener chain to form a severed section of fastener chain attached to the article.
 3. An apparatus as claimed in claim 1 wherein the automatic control means includes means for disabling one of the stitch forming means, and there is included Means responsive to the automatic control means for feeding the tapes and portions transverse to the parallel lines of stitches to form a transverse line of stitches attaching the tapes and the portions together.
 4. An apparatus as claimed in claim 3 wherein the transverse feeding means feeds the tapes and portions transversely and returns to form a pair of transverse lines of stitches.
 5. An apparatus as claimed in claim 3 wherein the fastener chain has a continuous length and wherein there is included means responsive to the sensing means for severing the fastener chain to form a severed section of fastener chain attached to the article.
 6. An apparatus as claimed in claim 5 wherein the severing means is positioned to form a severed section having a length slightly longer than the opening, and the automatic control means advances the portions and tapes to continue the parallel lines of stitches adjacent the terminal point and the trailing end of the severed section of fastener chain before operation of the disabling means and the transverse feeding means.
 7. An apparatus as claimed in claim 3 which includes means operated by the automatic control means for severing the thread extending from the needle in the one stitch forming means
 8. An apparatus as claimed in claim 7 which includes means operated after the transverse feeding means for severing the thread extending from the needle in the other stitch forming means.
 9. An apparatus as claimed in claim 7 which includes means for retaining the severed end of the thread extending from the needle in the one stitch forming means.
 10. An apparatus as claimed in claim 7 wherein the severing means includes a support, a severing blade mounted on the support and having a severing edge, a pair of snagging blades slidably mounted on opposite sides of the severing blade and each having hook portions for snagging the thread, and means for advancing and retracting the snagging blades to snag the thread with the hook portions when advanced and to engage the thread with the severing edge to cut the thread when retracted.
 11. An apparatus as claimed in claim 10 which includes a thread retaining element, and bias means for urging the thread retaining element into engagement with one of the snagging blades to hold the severed end of the thread extending from the needle between the thread retaining element and the one snagging blade.
 12. An apparatus as claimed in claim 3 wherein the tape and portion feeding means includes a presser foot, means for biasing the presser foot downward against the portions and the tapes, and feed dog means for moving upward against the portions and tapes beneath the presser foot and in a first direction to feed the tapes and portions, and means responsive to the automatic control means for rendering the feed dog means inoperable.
 13. An apparatus as claimed in claim 12 wherein the feed dog means includes a feed dog, means for reciprocating the feed dog in the first direction, a rotatable cam, a cam follower member mounted on the feed dog and vertically displaced relative to the cam, a slidable cam follower insert, and means for moving the insert from a position between the cam follower member and the cam where the cam engages the insert to a position removed from the cam where the cam engages the cam follower member.
 14. An apparatus as claimed in claim 1 wherein one of the pair of stitch forming means includes means for moving its needle between an operative position and an inoperative position, the automatic control means includes means for operating the needle moving means to move the one needle to its inoperative position, and there is included means responsive to the automatic control means for feeding the tapes and portions transverse to the parallel lines of stitches to form a transverse line of stitches attaching the tapes and the portions together.
 15. An apparAtus as claimed in claim 14 which includes means for locking the one needle moving means in the operative position.
 16. An apparatus as claimed in claim 15 including means, operable after the operation of the transverse feeding means, for operating the one needle moving means to move the one needle to its operative position and for operating the one needle locking means.
 17. An apparatus as claimed in claim 1 wherein the portions of the article have folded seam allowances and there is included a scroll having opposite concave surfaces defining channels for receiving respective folded seam allowances, and a pair of folding plates each extending into the respective channels of the scroll for guiding and maintaining the folded seam allowances.
 18. An apparatus as claimed in claim 17 including a pair of spring biased members, each extending from a respective folding plate toward each other for maintaining and guiding the folded seam allowances in abutting relationship to the pair of stitch forming means.
 19. An apparatus as claimed in claim 17 which includes means for adjusting the size of the channels in the scroll.
 20. An apparatus as claimed in claim 1 wherein the sensing means includes means for projecting into the opening to be engaged by the terminal point of the opening.
 21. An apparatus as claimed in claim 20 wherein the projecting means includes an arm pivotally mounted in alignment with the feeding means and having a raised position for extending into the opening of the article and being engaged by the terminal point of the opening to pivot to a lowered position.
 22. An apparatus as claimed in claim 21 wherein there is included means for guiding each of the portions of the article to a respective stitch forming means, and the arm in the lowered position has an upper surface extending toward a top of the portion guiding means to raise the article above the portion guiding means.
 23. An apparatus as claimed in claim 17 wherein the sensing means includes an arm pivotally mounted in alignment with the scroll and having a raised position for extending into the opening of the article and being engaged by the terminal point of the opening to pivot to a lowered position where the arm has an upper surface extending above the scroll to lift the article above the scroll, and there is included means responsive to the arm in the lowered position for moving the folding plates to a position spaced from the scroll channels.
 24. An apparatus for sewing a pair of tapes of a fastener chain having a pair of interlocking sets of fastening elements, each set attached to a respective tape, to respective portions of an article having an opening between the portions which are joined at a terminal point at one end of the opening and which have folded seam allowances, said apparatus comprising a pair of means each including a needle for forming stitches from a respective thread, motor means for operating both of the stitch forming means, brake means for stopping the stitch forming means, a presser foot, means for biasing the presser foot downward into engagement with the article and fastener chain, feed dog means for feeding the article and the fastener chain in a first direction beneath the presser foot to simultaneously sew parallel lines of stitches attaching the pair of tapes to the respective portions, means for moving one of the needles between an operative position and an inoperative position in the stitch forming means, and means for locking the one needle moving means in the operative position and in the inoperative position; guiding means including a pair of opposite scroll portions, means for adjusting the concave opening of the scroll portion to accommodate different thickness of material, and a pair fo slidable folding plates each including a spring biased tip adjacent the scroll for maintaining and guiding the folded seam allowances in abutting relationship to the presser foot and feeD dog means; means for feed and guiding the end of a continuous length of fastener chain to the presser foot and feed dog means; manual means for initiating operation of the motor means; an arm pivotally mounted in alignment with the guiding means and having a raised position for extending into the opening and being engaged by the terminal point of the opening to pivot to a lowered position, said arm when in the lowered position having an upper surface extending toward the top of scroll for raising the article above the scroll; menas for sensing the arm pivoting to the lowered position; means, operated by the sensing means, for opening the slidable folding plates; means, operated by the sensing means, for severing the fastener chain to form a severed section of fastener chain attached to the article; automatic means, operated by the sensing means, for deactuating the manual means and for automatically operating the motor means; means for stopping the motor means and operating the brake means to terminate the forming of the parallel lines of stitches adjacent the terminal point; means, operated when the motor stopping and brake operating means are operated, for releasing the tension of the threads from the needles to the article; means, operated when the motor stopping and brake operating means are operated, for producing an additional amount of thread slack in the thread to the needles; means, operated when the motor stopping and brake operating means are operated, for severing the thread from the one needle to the article; spring biased means for retaining the severed end of the thread extending from the one needle; means, operated when the motor stopping and brake operating means are first operated, for operating the one needle moving means to move the one needle to the inoperative position; means, operated when the motor stopping and brake operating means are first operated, for disabling the feed dog means; means, operated after a delay from the the first operation of the motor stopping and brake operating means, for terminating operation of the brake operating and motor stopping means; means for transversely feeding the article and fastener chain to form a transverse line of stitches from one of the parallel lines of stitches to the other parallel line of stitches and back again; means, operated when the transverse feeding means returns, for reinitiating operation of the brake operating and motor stopping means; means, operated when the operation of the brake operation and motor stopping means is reinitiated, for severing the thread from the other needle to the article; spring biased means for retaining the severing end of the thread extending from the other needle; and means, operated when the operation of the brake operating and motor stopping means is reinitiated, for raising the presser foot from engagement with the article. 